Rose is one of the most beloved and versatile flowers in the world of perfumery. Known as the "Queen of Flowers," its scent has graced perfumes for centuries, bringing a delicate, romantic, and sensual touch to countless fragrances. From ancient Egyptian rituals to modern luxury brands, rose has remained a cornerstone of the perfume industry. Let’s delve into how rose is used in perfumes, the types of rose extracts, and what makes this iconic flower so enduringly popular.
The Historical Significance of Rose in Perfumery
The use of rose in perfumes dates back thousands of years. Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans were some of the earliest civilisations to appreciate the beauty and scent of rose. In Egypt, rose oil was used in sacred rituals and was highly prized by the elite. The ancient Greeks considered roses a symbol of love and beauty, often associating the flower with the goddess Aphrodite. Similarly, in Rome, roses were lavishly used in celebrations and religious ceremonies. Fast forward to the Middle Ages, and roses were grown in monastery gardens across Europe, where monks used them for medicinal purposes as well as fragrance.
As trade expanded, so did the global fascination with roses. By the 17th century, the cultivation of roses and the extraction of rose oil had become a flourishing industry in places like Persia (modern-day Iran), Turkey, and Bulgaria, leading to the creation of the famous “Rose Valleys” and firmly establishing rose as a staple ingredient in fine perfumery.
Types of Rose Extracts Used in Perfumes
Perfumers have several methods to extract the essence of rose, each producing a slightly different profile. The choice of extraction method can influence the fragrance's longevity, intensity, and character.
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Rose Essential Oil: This is obtained through steam distillation. Rose petals are distilled to produce a light, concentrated oil. Essential oil tends to be more volatile and has a fresh, crisp quality to it.
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Rose Absolute: Often regarded as the most luxurious form of rose extract, rose absolute is made using a solvent extraction method. This process results in a thicker, richer oil with a deeper scent that’s less sharp than essential oil. Rose absolute is known for its intense, velvety aroma and is commonly used in high-end perfumes.
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Rose Water: A byproduct of the distillation process, rose water contains a milder, fresher version of the rose scent. While it’s more commonly used in skincare, culinary arts, and aromatherapy, rose water can also be found in light, refreshing perfumes or colognes.
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CO2 Extract: This method uses carbon dioxide to extract the fragrance compounds, resulting in a scent that is very true to the original flower. CO2 extracts are favoured for their ability to capture a more natural, nuanced scent that closely resembles a fresh rose.
The Role of Rose in Perfumery
Rose is often referred to as a “heart note” in perfumes, meaning it forms the middle layer of the fragrance and is typically the most prominent and enduring aspect of the scent. Heart notes are responsible for creating depth and complexity, serving as the bridge between lighter top notes and the rich base notes. You can learn more about perfume notes HERE.
Rose can also act as a solo ingredient or as part of a more intricate composition. In some fragrances, rose is the star of the show, while in others, it plays a supporting role, enhancing other floral, spicy, or fruity notes. Here’s how rose is often used in different fragrance categories:
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Floral Scents: Rose is often paired with other flowers like jasmine, lily, or peony to create soft, feminine, and romantic perfumes. It can add elegance and sophistication to these scents, making them perfect for special occasions or daily wear. This is the case of Lady Roza, where rose notes combine with peony and petalia at the heart of the fragrance.
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Oriental and Spicy Scents: When combined with spices like pepper, clove, or cardamom, rose can take on a mysterious, exotic quality. These perfumes are often warm, sensual, and suited to evening wear. Wild & Spicy starts witn an embrace of pink pepper and bergamot before developing into an elegant bouquet of rose.
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Fruity and Fresh Scents: Rose also pairs well with citrus notes like bergamot, lemon, and grapefruit or with fruity notes like raspberry and blackcurrant. These combinations create a bright, youthful, and energetic fragrance ideal for daytime or spring and summer. In this regard, Crown is an aristocratic dance of spices and citrus that exudes power and authority.
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Woody and Earthy Scents: The warmth and richness of rose work beautifully with base notes like sandalwood, patchouli, and cedarwood. These blends evoke a grounded, earthy scent that’s both sophisticated and alluring. Such is the case of Rose Oud, which features a mysterious foundation of Oud, Sandalwood, and Cedar that weaves an exotic and oriental tapestry, ensuring a memorable experience.
